RE: Lake Butler RFC-1 Battery Woes--No Direct Loop Content

[Matthias Grob <matthias@grob.org>]

seems to me that only the voltage is of importance, 1, 2, 3,, cells, 
in other words. A smaller one simply holds the data less time (weeks 
you leave the unit unconnected)

For the polarity simply get the volt meter out and measure when its 
on, because it will be charging with the right polarity.

>Hi,
>
>hey I got one of the rfc-1' and do you have the specs of the batery 
>that your  ordered and a part # that would be very helpful to me as 
>well as I have had the orginal battery in it since I got it , geez, 
>10 years ago or so
>
>Thanks
>Denis
>
>Denis taaffe
>denis@dtguitar.com
>http:/www.dtguitar.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: relayonemanband@earthlink.net
>[mailto:relayonemanband@earthlink.net]
>Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 5:14 PM
>To: Loopers-Delight@loopers-delight.com
>Subject: Lake Butler RFC-1 Battery Woes--No Direct Loop Content
>
>
>Hi all-
>I attempted to change the battery in my RFC-1, the full featured MIDI foot
>controller I used before I acquired the PMC-10.  On the advice of Dr.
>Richard, I ordered a battery from Parts Express that matched the specs.
>However, when it arrived, I found that it did not match the dimensions of
>the old battery.
>Worse, there is no indication of polarity on the old battery or on the
>circuit board (thanks, Emmett).  My question: Help!!!
>OK, let's phrase it in the form of a question.  Anybody feel like taking
>their RFC-1 apart to see which end is which?  The specs of the new battery
>are the same, so I might try using it (running leads from it to the 
>circuit
>board) but I don't want to blow this thing up.
>Clueless in San Diego,
>Gary


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