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hey Mark, that is awesome. First of all i assume its going on a regular guitar? as you know mine is on a lap steel so all of my adjustments are based on open tunings of various stripes that i use. With that said I have only used two levers , one on the G and one on the B string, and I've only set it up for string pulls, usually a 1/2 step or whole step bend on either string specific to which tuning I'm using. I have a third lever as well but I haven't even installed it yet. As I understand wound strings are better for drop tunings, and I believe a bit problematic for up bends. At some point i might add the third lever on the high E string as a drop tuner, in major tunings to drop to the major or b7. Just getting the hang of 2 levers has been occupying my time just fine:-)
here are some of the tunings I use with the pitch change settings in parenthesis
D major tuning low to high D, A, D, F# (+1/2, for sus, +1, for lydian#4), A (+1 for maj 6), D
D sus 2 tuning D, A, D, E (+1/2, for b3, +1, for maj 3rd), A ( 1/2 for b6, +1 for maj 6), D
D minor tuning D, A, D, F (+1/2, for maj 3rd, +1, for sus 4), A ( 1/2 for b6, +1 for maj 6), D
D sus 4 D, A, D, G (+1/2, for b5, +1, for 5th), A ( +1 for maj 6), D
i also use variants of these in C and also in open G and its mutations as well, moving to E requires lighter gauge strings than I like to use for lap steel playing but i've gotten good results when i did, i would recommend you start with the current gauge of strings you like to use. it seems that the heavier the gauge the less up or down maximum range you can get and the strings are under heavier tension as well so breaking them is easier and keeping the strings fresh particularly on the levered strings is important. as a general rule anythin higher tna a major second up bend is riskier for string breaking
have fun
Bill