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Just now getting a chance to read this. THANK YOU, Dennis. Very much! I'll start looking for the parts, and I'll keep you posted on my results. Thanks again! Doug ----- Original Message ----- From: Dennis Leas <dennis@mdbs.com> To: <Loopers-Delight@loopers-delight.com> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 1:40 PM Subject: Re: EFC-7 mod wiring diagram > Hi Doug! > > Yes, you'll want to drill two holes, in the EFC-7. And that's a PHONE jack > rather than a PHONO jack. Here's my attempt at detailed directions (from > memory)... > > 1) Get all your parts before you begin work. A SPDT switch is the >minimum > configuration required. A DPDT switch will be fine. If you want to use the > modified EFC-7 as a footswitch, I highly recommend the switch listed below. > recommended parts: > 1) one push-on/push-off switch, try GC Electronics: > http://www.gcwaldom.com/catalog.html > part no: 35-0490-0000. This switch has an indicator that > requires no power. It is a little > pricey but worth it, IMHO. The switch is also available from > other distributors. > 2) one high quality 1/4" phone jack, chassis mount. I've had > trouble with Radio Shack jacks. I'd > recommend a Switchcraft manufactured jack. > 3) insulated hook-up wire, 26 or 24 gauge, tinned > 4) optional washers or spacer for switch (see directions) > > tools: > 1) drill, drill bits, center punch. > 2) soldering iron, rosin-core solder > 3) wire cutters, needle-nose pliers > 4) ohmmeter, VOM, or continuity checker (optional) > > 2) Make sure your switch will fit in the EFC-7 case. I mounted my switch in > the upper right corner. The recommended switch is quite deep. I.e., it > requires a lot of clearance behind the panel. Disassemble the > EFC-7 case and try different switch locations. Make sure the switch will > fit when the EFC-7 is reassembled. > > The EFC-7 panel is rather thin so you may need to add a thick washer or > spacer between the switch and the > front panel. With the spacer/washer in place, the switch protrudes further > outside the case, giving the switch > more clearance inside, behind the panel. I found my spacer (a white plastic > cylinder) in the screen door repair parts > of my local hardware store. I had to enlarge the hole but after that, it > worked fine. Depending on what you find, > you may also need to shorten you spacer. > > When you have a good location for the switch, mark it. Center punch the > location. > > 3) Likewise, find a good location for the 1/4" phone jack. Mark it and > center punch the location. > > 4) Start with small drill bits, say 1/8" inch diameter and drill the switch > and jack holes. Gradually increase the hole > sizes until the switch and jack fit. > > 5) Make sure you remove all the drill tailings and debur the holes. > > 6) Mount the switch and jack. Using your eyeballs (less recommended) or an > ohmmeter (more recommended), > find the correct contacts on the switch. Call them "common", "A", and "B". > Before tightening the switch, rotate > it so that the correct contacts can be easily accessed. > > 7) Connect the RING of the new jack to the RING of the existing jack. > > 8) Disconnect the wire going to the TIP of the existing jack. Connect it to > the "common" terminal on the switch. > Don't overcook the switch when you solder the wire as you can melt the > switch. If possible, use the needle-nose > pliers as a heat sink for the switch by using it to hold the terminal > between the switch and the soldering point. > > 8) Connect the "A" switch terminal to the TIP of the existing jack. > > 9) Connect the "B" switch terminal to the TIP of the new jack. > > 10) Reassemble the EFC-7. Loop like crazy! > > Hope this helps (and is not insanely detailed)! Let me know if you've >any > questions. > > Dennis Leas > ------------------- > dennis@mdbs.com > >